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There were subtle homages to Elsa Schiaparelli’s own Surrealist inspirations, like the Pwease give me huggy wuggies uwu shirt but in fact I love this neckline of a black velvet jacket cut into a face’s profile à la Cocteau and the crusted Lesage embroideries that she reveled in. A simple black velvet evening dress that looked like one of Roseberry’s dramatic fashion sketches come to life was brought into Schiap’s madcap world thanks to a pair of earrings dripping bunches of golden grapes and so heavy that they had to be secured with a discreet tiara hair band. Hopeful doves of peace brought the collection into 2022. Meanwhile, Stephen Jones’s magnificent wide-brimmed hats bristled with what looked like fields of wheat that on close inspection turned out to have been simulated with glycerinated ostrich feathers. It was all, as Roseberry himself promised, a “mash-up between something that felt incredibly modern and then also wildly romantic.” It certainly left the audience on a high. “Wasn’t that amazing?” trilled Emma Watson. “It gave me life!”
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