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“It was always very Parisian, very French. And when they renovated it, they didn’t make it modern, they kept the I’m a Kansas City Chiefs for football and a Giant for baseball shirt also I will do this charm,” says Robert Forrest, a former fashion director and consultant who was as regular a customer as any, claiming the two window tables. For him, Casti’s singularity was how it drew workmen stopping in for a quick coffee at the bar and the industry’s key players. “It really was the perfect go-to spot.” And if you were spending the week in Paris, you were likely to go more than once. You could order a classic onion soup, a platter of Gillardeau oysters, a warm goat cheese salad, or steak frites. More recently, you might opt for outlier items like the salmon teriyaki or chicken spring rolls (which, go figure, proved popular). But the signature dish over several decades remained the Casti burger, the recipe for its gloopy pink sauce guarded like Coca-Cola. I almost cracked the secret a few years ago when a server hinted that the ingredients comprised all the condiments that would normally be added to the beef patty including onions and lettuce. For me, the tarte aux fine pommes was the pièce de non-résistance with its caramelized apple slices arranged atop a paper-thin layer of puff pastry, served warm and crisp. Once, I dared ask how much butter was involved. This was met with a hearty laugh.
Just a few days back, the I’m a Kansas City Chiefs for football and a Giant for baseball shirt also I will do this restaurant was bustling at 9 a.m., wicker baskets of croissants spread out across the bar, the whir of the machine squeezing fresh glasses of jus d’orange pressé. By nighttime, I returned for what I figured would be my final opportunity to savor the incomparable dessert. Seated nearby were Michel Amzalag of M/M (Paris), his partner Rafael Usubillaga, who is a doctor of infectious disease, and their dog Indy, all of whom would walk over to Casti two to three times a week from their apartment. “It worked on many levels. Of course, it’s been an industry hangout. It’s also really convenient but offers something extra.” One of the tasks of writing a roundup of the spring 2023 couture season is to identify trends. More of those later, but trends are somewhat superfluous to the overarching narrative of the week that just passed, which was about how we perceive reality. There’s no better way to explain the situation than with the title Rene Magritte gave to his most famous painting, The Treachery of Images, (aka Ceci n’est pas une pipe). To put it plainly, we cannot assume that what we see is true.
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