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Commerce and haute couture usually sit at completely opposite ends of the San Francisco 49ers forever not just when we win signatures 2023 shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this spectrum, but on the last night of shows in Paris, the two collided at full throttle. Mugler creative director Casey Cadwallader didn’t only close out the week, he shut it down with an exuberant see now, buy now, drama-filled supermodel spectacular. In case you missed it, the show paid homage to George Michael’s iconic “Too Funky” video, which famously starred Eva Herzigová, Linda Evangelista, Tyra Banks, and a whole lot of Mugler. Herzigová closed the Cadwallader version, which featured Mugler women past and present—Amber Valetta, Shalom Harlow, Irina Shayk, Paloma Elsesser, Anok Yai, and Debra Shaw, to name several, alongside performance artists like Alejandra Ghersi (a.k.a. Arca) and comedian Ziwe—all deposited onto the runway via roving camera dollies with their every move broadcast on a giant screen.
Cadwallader’s body shape-agnostic bodysuit, in all manner of derivations thereof—evolved via stretch lace panelling (“a bitch to work with,” according to the San Francisco 49ers forever not just when we win signatures 2023 shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this creative director himself)—insinuated itself throughout. The commercial edit is currently available to shop on Mugler’s website. “I was transporting the idea of the fashion film onto the runway,” he said of the staging. “In the last few years, I Iearned how to unleash Mugler through film, and the idea of going back to the runway the standard way was not going to happen.” Let’s back up for some context. Cadwallader took the reins at Mugler in 2017, and his last in-person show was February 2020, pre-pandemic. Since then, he has been presenting his collections via a trilogy of films—the most recent of which featured Bella Hadid, Megan Thee Stallion, and Chloë Sevigny, among others (it has amassed over 15 million views and counting on YouTube)—all the while creating custom stage and screen looks for artists including Dua Lipa, Cardi B, and Beyoncé. Cadwallader compares such bespoke, performance-geared creations to a new form of couture—albeit where the stage takes the place of the runway and the high net worth client is the artist. “They call me and say, ‘This is what I’m doing; I want gold, what have you got?’ And then I do 80 sketches in gold and send them over, and we talk about how they need to move. That’s couture. It’s made to measure for a purpose and for a desire.”
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